This is the next tapestry cushion that I finished a while ago. As with all my tapestry kits I bought it in a charity shop, this one some seven years ago. It is by Primavera, and the designer is Joanna Allen. You can still buy the kit, from John Lewis among other places. It was not one of my favourites, but I still enjoyed stitching it, and I am very pleased by the way it turned out. Somebody else helped stitch the flower bottom right, and it shows that it has been done in a different style.
The background wool for this kit was a dark red, and I was doubtful about how it would turn out. The ones in John Lewis had a cream background, and I could not find a red one on the Internet either, although there was one in navy. I thought cream would be too light and impractical, so I looked for a different colour. In the end I chose a medium grey, and I like it.
Sunday, 17 June 2012
Sunday, 10 June 2012
The next blanket
The next Kaffe Fassett jumper in turn to be unravelled was the Lattice patten from Glorious Knitting. It is knitted exactly as in the book. The problem with this kind of regular pattern is that all the yarns are the same lengths and there are a limited number of them. The yarns are nice anyway, Rowan Spun Tweed and Fine Tweed and some fine chenille. I like chenille yarns, but the thicker ones are inflexible to knit with.
The second garment was a Per Una zip front cardigan from the time when they did 100% wool clothes. I bought this several years ago aiming it for a bus knitted blanket, but then I had second thoughts. I thought it was shetland yarn but it is not. The yarn came out quite well anyway, after washing. The fronts were cut so I discarded them. I have so much yarn now that I no longer have patience to deal with a lot of short ends in indifferent yarns. I threw away the thick yarn in the collar and cuffs, too. I could have split it, but I did not have a mind to.
Sunday, 22 April 2012
The next blanket
My guidelines for choosing yarn for blanket #147 were simple - medium colours and no reds. This blanket is knitted in double knitting weight and I enjoy knitting with smaller needles. For want of red it became blue and green as well as my favourite neutral beige grey brown shades.
I added some yarns that I had rejected for the previous blanket #146 as too dark.
And some bright blue and greens. I keep saying that I don't like these because it is so difficult to avoid them spoiling the look. From now on I would like to reserve them for the dark blankets, if I can only remember.
For softness I added these. The grey on the left is from a charity shop. I bought some five balls without labels. I like to think that they are mohair. There may be some acrylic content, but they smell animal. The next is the angora yarn from blanket #138, and the blue is a Pingoiun yarn, d'Esprit Angora. It feels like angora, but the label buried deep inside says that it is only 10% angora, the rest acrylic and nylon.
The two garments that I unpicked were also soft.

The first is a Peruvian Connection picture sweater. This was lovely, and such a work that has gone into knitting it. It was so difficult to unravel, though. The ends, and there were thousands of ends, had not been woven in, but sewn in, into themselves two or three times. I wondered why I wanted to unpick it. The only way to cope was to forget about time, and take it slowly getting into the rhythm of unpicking. The yarn is alpaca, 4 ply, knitted double, and the sweater yielded lots of nice wool in lovely colours, all in different lengths, some even very long. I am pleased with the yarn. It will last a long time.
The second is an M&S cashmere cardigan, tied with a silk sash. The colour is a nice light brown and the yarn very soft. I have included in on every row, and I like the sheen the colour adds as well as the softness. I am pleased that there will be enough to do the whole blanket.
The two garments that I unpicked were also soft.
Sunday, 18 March 2012
Knitting Noro Blossom blanket
I succumbed to the temptation of Noro Blossom when it was remaindered in the July sales nearly two years ago. I remembered liking the picture of the Acton cushion in Jane Ellison's booklet Simply Noro. It was the garter stitch stripes that appealed to me. Judging by the measurements in the Acton pattern I worked out that 1 kg would be enough for a blanket. That was expensive enough, as the yarn was just reduced by a third, not half. But it nagged at me that it wasn't enough yarn, and when I did some more calculations I realised I would need another bag of 500 gr. Luckily I could still get one of the same shade and dye lot.
After all of that, and quite disgusted with myself for spending so much money, I put the yarn away safely because I was no longer minded to start knitting with it. Now, with the Geo Modern Throw finished I got the yarn out again.
I was surprised. This must be the first time that I have bought a Noro yarn without any turquoise or bright green. The pink I like because it is nice with the lavender and blue shades. I don't even mind the apricot coloured red.
I had in mind to knit a log cabin pattern. For this purpose I bought another two hanks of Noro Blossom last autumn; this time in a bright pink shade. I didn't like the block. It seemed to me that the yarn was too busy for the pattern, with the colour changes and the boucle. I tried another way of garter stitch blocks knitted together, but I didn't like that either. But, this method I will bear in mind for some future project. So it was back to plain garter stitch stripes. That's what attracted me to the yarn in the first place, but it does seem simple.
I use my method of one row stripes by three yarns, to avoid abrupt colour changes with a new hank. I decided not to match shades at all. So I cut the first hank when I had knitted approximately one third and the second after two thirds. This way I avoid joining new hanks for all three at the same time. The only decision on shades is which end to start knitting from with a new hank. Sometimes I avoid a shade, other times I look for one.
As a result the shades are all over the place. In some places there are distinct stripes, in others the shades merge nicely. In other words, precisely like my standards blankets. I have no idea at all how the shades are arranged, if they are symmetrical or not. I suspect the runs are unequal lengths.
I'm surprised that I don't enjoy the knitting very much. I can't get on with the boucle, the needles are too thick and the yarn slippery, nice and soft but still slippery. I am impatient to get ahead with it so that I can continue with the next non-standard blanket, and I force myself to keep knitting. I would be happy knitting two or three rows per day, but that way it would take months to finish. I do like the end result though. It is going to be a blanket that I like very much, both the colours and the texture.
After all of that, and quite disgusted with myself for spending so much money, I put the yarn away safely because I was no longer minded to start knitting with it. Now, with the Geo Modern Throw finished I got the yarn out again.
I was surprised. This must be the first time that I have bought a Noro yarn without any turquoise or bright green. The pink I like because it is nice with the lavender and blue shades. I don't even mind the apricot coloured red.
I had in mind to knit a log cabin pattern. For this purpose I bought another two hanks of Noro Blossom last autumn; this time in a bright pink shade. I didn't like the block. It seemed to me that the yarn was too busy for the pattern, with the colour changes and the boucle. I tried another way of garter stitch blocks knitted together, but I didn't like that either. But, this method I will bear in mind for some future project. So it was back to plain garter stitch stripes. That's what attracted me to the yarn in the first place, but it does seem simple.
I use my method of one row stripes by three yarns, to avoid abrupt colour changes with a new hank. I decided not to match shades at all. So I cut the first hank when I had knitted approximately one third and the second after two thirds. This way I avoid joining new hanks for all three at the same time. The only decision on shades is which end to start knitting from with a new hank. Sometimes I avoid a shade, other times I look for one.
As a result the shades are all over the place. In some places there are distinct stripes, in others the shades merge nicely. In other words, precisely like my standards blankets. I have no idea at all how the shades are arranged, if they are symmetrical or not. I suspect the runs are unequal lengths.
I'm surprised that I don't enjoy the knitting very much. I can't get on with the boucle, the needles are too thick and the yarn slippery, nice and soft but still slippery. I am impatient to get ahead with it so that I can continue with the next non-standard blanket, and I force myself to keep knitting. I would be happy knitting two or three rows per day, but that way it would take months to finish. I do like the end result though. It is going to be a blanket that I like very much, both the colours and the texture.
Wednesday, 7 March 2012
And the next blanket
The next standard blanket is a light coloured one. Again I decided to knit aran weight on 4.5 mm needles. This time it was because I decided to include a lot of the white wool from the granny square blanket I unpicked, and I thought that knitting it double with another 4 ply yarn would make the white less obvious. And it has, so it was successful. This is shows how much nicer the wool became after washing.
Over the years I have bought a lot of tapestry wool yarn. Initially I think I had in mind to use it in the blankets and then I thought perhaps I will design my tapestries, and it is a good thing to have a lot of colours to hand. Meanwhile my collection just grows and grows - it is around 8 kg now. I must really do something with it. So I sorted it out. I will keep whole skeins. The rest is to go into blankets. So in this blanket I have used white and yellow short lengths. The wool is lovely and soft and a pleasure to knit with. The picture shows just a small proportion of the collection.
For this blanket I unpicked another Kaffe Fassett project. This time it is one of his triangle cardigans. I think this was available as a kit in the early 1990s. This is the second that I have unpicked. It is knitted in a small size, and it has been washed and shrunk slightly, so the fair isle knitted pattern comes across as quilted. It was easy to unpick nevertheless, and the shrinkage gives texture to the yarn. Again it is Rowan double knitting wool in lovely pastel colours.
The second sweater is a pale blue man's v-neck cashmere sweater. The brand is Pure. There is little to say about it. It is crumpled on the picture, easy to unpick. This time I included it on every row, so it gives a blue tinge to the blanket. Adding an extra thin strand does add time taken to knit as well, as you need to make sure it is included, and I often wonder if it is worth it. I quite like it because it is not obvious.
Over the years I have bought a lot of tapestry wool yarn. Initially I think I had in mind to use it in the blankets and then I thought perhaps I will design my tapestries, and it is a good thing to have a lot of colours to hand. Meanwhile my collection just grows and grows - it is around 8 kg now. I must really do something with it. So I sorted it out. I will keep whole skeins. The rest is to go into blankets. So in this blanket I have used white and yellow short lengths. The wool is lovely and soft and a pleasure to knit with. The picture shows just a small proportion of the collection.
For this blanket I unpicked another Kaffe Fassett project. This time it is one of his triangle cardigans. I think this was available as a kit in the early 1990s. This is the second that I have unpicked. It is knitted in a small size, and it has been washed and shrunk slightly, so the fair isle knitted pattern comes across as quilted. It was easy to unpick nevertheless, and the shrinkage gives texture to the yarn. Again it is Rowan double knitting wool in lovely pastel colours.
The second sweater is a pale blue man's v-neck cashmere sweater. The brand is Pure. There is little to say about it. It is crumpled on the picture, easy to unpick. This time I included it on every row, so it gives a blue tinge to the blanket. Adding an extra thin strand does add time taken to knit as well, as you need to make sure it is included, and I often wonder if it is worth it. I quite like it because it is not obvious.
Wednesday, 29 February 2012
Geo Modern Throw
I finally got round to tackle finishing this blanket. I was surprised how quick it was in the end. I think I had in mind other blankets with some 270 blocks - it is much easier with only 20 blocks.
I lay the blocks out on the bed, trying for a pleasing arrangement, so that similar blocks were not adjacent. I left them on the bed for several days, moving a couple now and again. I came to the conclusion that any arrangement had to do, because it was impossible to make it perfect. The patterns gave two different ways of joining the blocks. I liked the one where you pick up stitches along one side of block A, with circular needles, turn the work round and pick up stitches along one side of block B, turn it round again and do a three needle cast off. Then you are in the right place to pick up stitches from block C etc. It worked well. I used safety pins to hold the blocks together while I was doing it. I first joined the blocks horizontally, and then all were in place for joining vertically. The only thing that I am unhappy about is the ridge that the three needle cast off makes. I tried putting it on the reverse, but a ridge on the underside of a blanket did not seem a good idea, although it looked fine from the top. Now there is a ditch but it is only noticeable if you pull on it.
The second way of joining the blocks involved picking up stitches and purling one row before the three needle cast off. I rejected this method, because it would have meant cutting the yarn, and fastening it, for every block.
The yarns that I used for the cast off both came from charity shops. Holywell Textile Mills did a double knitting weight aran type brown wool, and Hermit a standard double knitting, again brown, colour clove. I can't find pictures of either of them now. I wondered how much wool the joining would take and using the two doubled it took 65 gr of the first and 57 gr of the second. When I knitted the rocking chair cover last summer I went out looking for more Lopi wool unsuccessfully. Since then I have seen it, so I bought some more for the border. I wanted the border to be similar to the blocks, so the joining wool would not do. I judged it well that 200 gr would be sufficient, in fact it took 125 gr. The colour is darker than I wanted as I could not find a lighter brown. The border was very simple, a few rows of garter stitch. I did it in two sections, using two circular needles, with rubber bands stopping the stitches from falling off, and knitting with a third. Well, I did own three pairs the same size. The corners are not elegant. It does not matter in the least that the blocks are not precisely the same size. You just pull it to shape. The blocks, once blocked and joined, turned out to be around 36 cm square.
I am very pleased with the blanket now that it is finished. I can't stop looking at the patterns, and the wool feels so nice. It would be even better if you used three or four shades of the same yarn throughout. To my mind the randomness of the stripe pattern is the best thing.
Geo Modern Throw C8
Pattern: Knit Picks website (see link in previous entry)
Yarn: Various chunky pure wool yarns, total 1795 gr
Size: 185 cm long 150 cm wide
Needles: 6mm
Knitted 30 March 2011 to 11 February 2012
I lay the blocks out on the bed, trying for a pleasing arrangement, so that similar blocks were not adjacent. I left them on the bed for several days, moving a couple now and again. I came to the conclusion that any arrangement had to do, because it was impossible to make it perfect. The patterns gave two different ways of joining the blocks. I liked the one where you pick up stitches along one side of block A, with circular needles, turn the work round and pick up stitches along one side of block B, turn it round again and do a three needle cast off. Then you are in the right place to pick up stitches from block C etc. It worked well. I used safety pins to hold the blocks together while I was doing it. I first joined the blocks horizontally, and then all were in place for joining vertically. The only thing that I am unhappy about is the ridge that the three needle cast off makes. I tried putting it on the reverse, but a ridge on the underside of a blanket did not seem a good idea, although it looked fine from the top. Now there is a ditch but it is only noticeable if you pull on it.
The second way of joining the blocks involved picking up stitches and purling one row before the three needle cast off. I rejected this method, because it would have meant cutting the yarn, and fastening it, for every block.
The yarns that I used for the cast off both came from charity shops. Holywell Textile Mills did a double knitting weight aran type brown wool, and Hermit a standard double knitting, again brown, colour clove. I can't find pictures of either of them now. I wondered how much wool the joining would take and using the two doubled it took 65 gr of the first and 57 gr of the second. When I knitted the rocking chair cover last summer I went out looking for more Lopi wool unsuccessfully. Since then I have seen it, so I bought some more for the border. I wanted the border to be similar to the blocks, so the joining wool would not do. I judged it well that 200 gr would be sufficient, in fact it took 125 gr. The colour is darker than I wanted as I could not find a lighter brown. The border was very simple, a few rows of garter stitch. I did it in two sections, using two circular needles, with rubber bands stopping the stitches from falling off, and knitting with a third. Well, I did own three pairs the same size. The corners are not elegant. It does not matter in the least that the blocks are not precisely the same size. You just pull it to shape. The blocks, once blocked and joined, turned out to be around 36 cm square.
I am very pleased with the blanket now that it is finished. I can't stop looking at the patterns, and the wool feels so nice. It would be even better if you used three or four shades of the same yarn throughout. To my mind the randomness of the stripe pattern is the best thing.
Geo Modern Throw C8
Pattern: Knit Picks website (see link in previous entry)
Yarn: Various chunky pure wool yarns, total 1795 gr
Size: 185 cm long 150 cm wide
Needles: 6mm
Knitted 30 March 2011 to 11 February 2012
Sunday, 12 February 2012
Noro Cashmere Island jumper
Cashmere Island is one of the Noro yarns in the wool store, and last autumn I decided to cast on for a jumper. I bought the yarn in the John Lewis sale when it was discontinued, and I bought what was left, 9 skeins of a purplish colour and 2 in less bright shades. So there was more than enough for a jumper.
The style I aimed for was the one that you see in the shops now, loose with narrow sleeves. I cast on with a crochet provisional cast on, because I had not decided if I wanted ribbing. Also, starting a project with several cms of ribbing is soul destroying. You have no idea what the knitting will look like and how large it is going to be. And I would be able to do the ribbing in the other shade, if necessary.
I could have knitted in the round, but I chose not to. This was mainly because I wanted to do the sleeves by picking up stitches around the arm holes and knitting downwards. When I had finished the back it was obvious there would be enough of the purplish shade. On the front I did a wide neck opening, so the shoulder seam turned out to be quite narrow. I joined the shoulders using a three needle bind off for the first time. It worked well, but I was surprised to see how obvious the join still is, both on the right and reverse sides. I decided to do the ridge on the reverse side. I think I expected the seam to look like grafting, and I may try that another time. I like grafting. It is fun once you forget the instructions. By just studying the stitches it is easy to work out how the yarn should go. But the three needle bind off produces a more durable seam.
It was the sleeves that caused the problem. I had to reknit them about three times to get the right width, skinny but loose enough to be comfortable. So this was supposed to be a quick knit, but in the end it took four months. A lot of the time was spent with me working out what to do next instead of doing the knitting. I found myself longing for a project where I could just follow the pattern without any thinking.
I went for ribbing in the end, and I did it after I had sewn the side seams. It was easy to unpick the provisional cast on, and then it was just a matter of knitting downwards. I did the neckline using short rows. I have never seen it in any pattern, but it seems to me a natural way to shape the neck, and it makes it very easy to add the neckband.
Now it is finished anyway, and I like it. It fits. The yarn is very pleasant. You do notice the cashmere content - very smooth, in contrast to my Noro Kureyon cardigan. I went to a lot of trouble to get the shades to agree on all the pieces, so there was a lot of winding and rewinding balls of yarn. Because the yarn comes in hanks I had to make sure I wound it in the same direction all the time, and the only way to do that was to wind a bit and work out which shade came next. Except the sleeves and the ribbing were knitted in the opposite direction, and I wanted to start with the same shade so there was more rewinding. And I wanted to avoid the ribbing and sleeve cuffs ending up pink or turquoise. There are a lot of small balls left over. I was pleased with the result anyway. I managed to get the shades as I wanted. I am very tempted to knit a cowl with the left over yarn, but if I started now I would not be ready until late spring. I will leave it for next winter.
I haven't said anything about the colours. This is again a case of the yarn looking nicer in the hank than knitted. I would not choose these colours if I went out to buy yarn. The conclusion - can I stop buying Noro? I don't think so. The jumper is comfortable to wear and just right for this weather.
Noro Cashmere Island jumper
Yarn: Noro Cahmere Island wool 60%, cashmere 30%, nylon 10%, 360 g
Needles: 4 mm
Tension: 22 st
Size: Small
Pattern: own
Knitted: 21 September 2010 to 21 January 2012
The style I aimed for was the one that you see in the shops now, loose with narrow sleeves. I cast on with a crochet provisional cast on, because I had not decided if I wanted ribbing. Also, starting a project with several cms of ribbing is soul destroying. You have no idea what the knitting will look like and how large it is going to be. And I would be able to do the ribbing in the other shade, if necessary.
I could have knitted in the round, but I chose not to. This was mainly because I wanted to do the sleeves by picking up stitches around the arm holes and knitting downwards. When I had finished the back it was obvious there would be enough of the purplish shade. On the front I did a wide neck opening, so the shoulder seam turned out to be quite narrow. I joined the shoulders using a three needle bind off for the first time. It worked well, but I was surprised to see how obvious the join still is, both on the right and reverse sides. I decided to do the ridge on the reverse side. I think I expected the seam to look like grafting, and I may try that another time. I like grafting. It is fun once you forget the instructions. By just studying the stitches it is easy to work out how the yarn should go. But the three needle bind off produces a more durable seam.
It was the sleeves that caused the problem. I had to reknit them about three times to get the right width, skinny but loose enough to be comfortable. So this was supposed to be a quick knit, but in the end it took four months. A lot of the time was spent with me working out what to do next instead of doing the knitting. I found myself longing for a project where I could just follow the pattern without any thinking.
I went for ribbing in the end, and I did it after I had sewn the side seams. It was easy to unpick the provisional cast on, and then it was just a matter of knitting downwards. I did the neckline using short rows. I have never seen it in any pattern, but it seems to me a natural way to shape the neck, and it makes it very easy to add the neckband.
Now it is finished anyway, and I like it. It fits. The yarn is very pleasant. You do notice the cashmere content - very smooth, in contrast to my Noro Kureyon cardigan. I went to a lot of trouble to get the shades to agree on all the pieces, so there was a lot of winding and rewinding balls of yarn. Because the yarn comes in hanks I had to make sure I wound it in the same direction all the time, and the only way to do that was to wind a bit and work out which shade came next. Except the sleeves and the ribbing were knitted in the opposite direction, and I wanted to start with the same shade so there was more rewinding. And I wanted to avoid the ribbing and sleeve cuffs ending up pink or turquoise. There are a lot of small balls left over. I was pleased with the result anyway. I managed to get the shades as I wanted. I am very tempted to knit a cowl with the left over yarn, but if I started now I would not be ready until late spring. I will leave it for next winter.
I haven't said anything about the colours. This is again a case of the yarn looking nicer in the hank than knitted. I would not choose these colours if I went out to buy yarn. The conclusion - can I stop buying Noro? I don't think so. The jumper is comfortable to wear and just right for this weather.
Noro Cashmere Island jumper
Yarn: Noro Cahmere Island wool 60%, cashmere 30%, nylon 10%, 360 g
Needles: 4 mm
Tension: 22 st
Size: Small
Pattern: own
Knitted: 21 September 2010 to 21 January 2012
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